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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLflHWztaU9
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDavFpdyshR
「這麼早？」旭仔問。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm7FxUc1D9z
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqzSmRsK0h4
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgCfAqpU6Yh
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡloxJE7NG6N
「是啊，要趕路了。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAXMReKFZUd
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlnmIzPpHeL
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3xztw5F03L
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5VwJ8TRi9x
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡq5qAcLekgO
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVLco86NlBi
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWWBMM4hRPp
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN1esmDymD0
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG2SLO9bLcT
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlqT2Xaf0H2
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJSVmfGDDcS
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWhUUe30CZf
「謝謝你。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtbqycJwmq9
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoaW0j3aT42
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOSsB3Xh0LM
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL8j68SsP5F
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyLW1AnFJ98
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqC6sqryybv
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzPsge4dFY2
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDHkltr4UHY
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk6EPbNOWVD
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEQ7ytW5u6B
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh8tF1WNILM
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtfAhcGzV2p
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDI2DNod6F3
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmDhvKhE33R
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbT6foUkXj1
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAfTE1Wg0lP
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5ttbKBqJpA
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKWjKyEuOuC
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm8cxTxxzSS
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ52cuvEHyEa
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0geAteZT9J
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMnXtdom8X4
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnV9s4VTa6t
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXs7ElEeSll
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpBiuCpNhoI
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXrr5q1hmp7
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwq3MYL9yaV
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOeIhkAg14Y
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQdWWHu3Kg9
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKR2rI4Eas6
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡguq9OnzPmt
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxwpk8eTne2
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3jnedNCy40
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2pN40fMV6p
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoxDteoYZSq
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAJ2WzgXvxY
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT0AieqU2YC
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR8zVUmeBJg
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7qkJOwn3To
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYGLgDMqHQ6
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxEUEBUvbYE
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwpQGqejtgD
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1ZzEXN4ltq
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡny7gnrseCp
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1r8DSdTlaQ
「是的。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5VE3W6knQg
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcKuXqgn2fr
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeTAJPbuxgZ
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡorGuq0k1s3
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0YfJTnzuAU
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHSeHv2reML
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUqIpUTiCL3
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjczbprzlrR
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZr4swuuIBZ
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvW7VRtg1Vd
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ53WnOMIVen
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFg3shvkXAI
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBpncHdxKlT
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ehoH58CJP
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL347tQ5XPm
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMLwgDwjIqN
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsZ9yiFvHJg
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUFayIeMUSx
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpcBkQbxEHh
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqwgyopchj9
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2QVc2xDqCa
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfMwvuvpYSg
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSx7hPNXvcV
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVJJZ8FY8H3
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJnMbnQ7Xoi
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9yVbCe1jfX
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHfclKszPEC
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsOPGhv3gFU
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSmsI89tbrj
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJtDYH8CyIj
「太好了！」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJv1ZWtqsSM
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhNYLSd10Wh
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIMPRiAYLTH
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFEE088We9u
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxoWYiIBeV6
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZygkMOroLf
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG3mivS67Ui
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5SVZNSVtFv
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXitvktV6Zt
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ37HOrsl9jd
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoDygjs9uqY
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6oygrOIcRV
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOtV0ctYFbs
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaZatT6b68D
「好。」旭仔答。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFDg2B0ASPv
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWwTrn3fMk9
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbQJaK1qcLK
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡylmyJWpIDl
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLP3kk2zNj5
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeEaIMLrO6V
旭仔淺嘗一口。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuwNafER7kf
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡesi7hz5DTR
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1QHXURLOPT
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡm17lk447KJ
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC8x6TsarB8
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRwA6B4V0ZR
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡke2czELVjA
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ22eZcgsJi9
「好喝。」旭仔答。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡutr7U1e89b
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqbwkpS2m1v
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgjswhbdann
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbYkXN6mBz9
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzrVXKWsnPQ
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ27RLq6TNDu
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEAf1fvXZ1s
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhhS84dOUTg
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡP9JrWTE4pL
606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZgfRg2kDZQ
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。606Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzMY6AO3Vou
