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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG7Gl6vDCcd
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdKPSVDGui4
「這麼早？」旭仔問。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQcLEsVFzkP
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSNt3DdhiZ3
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjLsyFz7LX7
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBtNGy0oxYM
「是啊，要趕路了。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpqqIkSptSf
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFtYCN9ZqHI
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5Lr72FzVXe
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFT0fZVy5Sl
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Nn19JRpzZ
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPGDTndFltg
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡncfjLeg9n3
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFOfz7y7Puk
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvwc32Y2I9N
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡahPVikG1cV
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIQhxrEo9Cx
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡua5Epndfnm
「謝謝你。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKtsE0yMK1r
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVi2G31Gf2D
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ51yYUMZ3S
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKnfsw6j1xb
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHVwK3AgfYY
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSBEgJPZJdS
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlCZBR7yA4R
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2DBNloCLFx
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv5tXE1XhJe
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6DnLI9PYdp
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Z8Ovta4Gj
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgLoDe2fbvw
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZCAz83fbtB
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg7HGmUqUwR
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzHzjoQXroJ
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgjXXu2QB8M
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjSL9aSIzOn
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeW6FXd5xT9
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡosHvGURpFh
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrtwJzLP8zj
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB7FXHndcWi
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvNqjLZykdn
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6JhZRl8Tz0
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9fE2Kovy75
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8wcNcCAnnf
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡygyo9Yku5g
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQtC0vKOqSC
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMpIBRMC8eL
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyaKDXM7cIc
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqjrgm2ECdu
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHlRBzfA4bs
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ760AxY5jjx
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAALAJOnzM5
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRDuxrgPdm9
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy6c3us6P7P
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX3SV2ByuR6
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa8dTJaCfyX
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIi4qFaAaUX
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCIkIX0fSQy
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPG2NCRb8QC
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHUTWAllioX
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡktZxFV0nMM
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcP4gBf0LMm
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5SZJlgXMYb
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFtc74kqSD6
「是的。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS3esbGtkGf
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaeaPobeqow
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2mqLZ9tQ3z
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBfM9piegKn
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYh50KBEZBn
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXFJLo1ZuTs
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHT9pBfLPcd
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1bd1fFhrOi
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQW6V19RDvU
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaHTEZWXNTG
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡueAuIVrwow
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSrwYzpPOAL
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIK91GvNQta
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFQTTrR16hs
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡouAGpwmuZU
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoRllaD77Ii
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvidK95AzSy
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFj1n5Paolf
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQo9qxoW4dv
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡluOzgJanvs
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXtoD2cjP4E
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAoWINgmY1J
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUfazDG8nGB
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaNxd7EPQvF
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHEpJXIWoK7
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRHPjutJnMb
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOwqh9hO6tf
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqHd2AX1X8C
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ49ZbBOCDD
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡahtAYISODY
「太好了！」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ58W1f8YZau
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXOKgI7ZfRb
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYwxLh2fB7V
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2ey5Wd7rIG
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtFcZXO8Aas
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6uZcQO42h2
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡidL5n8LhK8
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ72xLfKpdum
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqcGPm2hwDw
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡap9V5tLseC
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3i68ujbjMt
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxLwl05l4jw
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlb81essJhL
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl49ZPya1bD
「好。」旭仔答。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHNSXTY3JjT
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYKUPXVgdU4
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4xrArRmt0I
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTWrht3sjDZ
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYvBg6So7wB
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbCOKhVu8d7
旭仔淺嘗一口。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9ZdGn9TvJJ
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWcmcD9lD7i
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEcjow1kE3R
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZPpXYELTH6
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPTsIkQxVCU
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBoqzIEzIp5
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM3CyLskwgG
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡld0f8fcfvU
「好喝。」旭仔答。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk1UShK5JjC
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡizM3RgPrJ7
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuSUCCewHlD
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8uenaJvUGN
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqUVhKestQI
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkDYpchpHv9
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwnAWusRvXb
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDkbNcK1jaD
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrTGq13Mn58
492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡydYDSILheM
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。492Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhZY9jp7HxQ
