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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZiObY2xitr
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC5fzqkEISB
「這麼早？」旭仔問。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJypumW4WgE
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfoxYIRi7tw
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZvrmPvx5s1
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡioQFmFdLlb
「是啊，要趕路了。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfF8UUEE9l7
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡISKxMxi535
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmb53nezuyF
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz0hqv06LZT
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu0mhy12N4f
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsFKVAaGdSW
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxCJzzKK93W
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFPkfjkrN8E
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzBBGs1RxQX
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhNFRoytVLP
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKK3VTwhIlE
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd3ZFNXGKy6
「謝謝你。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf8V2GV0p93
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrCr0E1kLPH
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPMYfnHqt2q
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7bnFho6nKp
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaI4rWtSMfV
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPaLRxyqhNo
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeTfdKWAqJ5
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy2N2hGJOZC
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡggqNy19bnD
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVPOzEsZOUK
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzxPZwgmz5l
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwfCHcQriCO
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2FaZdLFdgY
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUC9T4w3nED
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4tM8n4YrNy
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡycWKGueaay
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwwSputupfS
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡetgC1IeyL4
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpoOfgUBnqN
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0QrJFMuIkW
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQWPzyOyFsm
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr3GNGu5iAQ
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0dluGNg1Ez
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLYbbJNz0ho
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrktleKESIP
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnt83hfvVPv
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7JXy4DLYv7
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWIU1dOJfXj
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4L6FVYU2ue
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVWeD1n5rWy
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZjJK5ffMkY
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIIdS6xbjOf
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIC8US9tn8y
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzacbpjmTnU
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcntZdxJsBE
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNudQtQhVvz
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSCVHAav1JJ
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtcLvLHp0Xs
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrHHxu7TlYr
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ46RBJq65A1
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8IzME4Gb4
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡw12409YMDb
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDZmbe7mq8x
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHs2DyLV2pX
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr5H21jcFp4
「是的。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxGeGCAHwoO
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4RdWOZHzut
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3IdDdJJkS4
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV02fVBBECa
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzRPu8lfFRw
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT9oFfUMw6x
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡds8qq0SfuI
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ48W7A4q4I3
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfB60wihuX7
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYRs8T5c4tG
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0zcxRrc4sl
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR9aUCHqSoB
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwwts6BZiMl
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡECzi41dsZq
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9O5xldf7Ss
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2HjpuZfHMO
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ450tG7jMAo
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8EP1TXqFXL
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡccQeFyMIcS
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSH3TLGRsnp
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKRKYCnEpsn
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNX7A9o4m07
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYAWtSq4E8G
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2CYeCgAvjw
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡONmG9mji1R
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4bNV1Hz8GS
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOzqykqVEDt
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3pHmpO9832
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQRWxCvMoed
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2DMuW00UIl
「太好了！」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8M07zsgcwU
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc2TYCPx3Gw
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGlJDYDXUYX
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0JkBGEGGIM
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2m1wu6PQER
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC10VZPvicr
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKTl5ULOAYb
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjSEYUwgyQS
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwZ5rHjmpTb
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH1lhIsk4Gi
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwG1r2MVSuk
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKvDNfd2ujH
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeNaPk2OTDv
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBs2sB33Tvw
「好。」旭仔答。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBwF1ur2S7n
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFRmIJTTjEP
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMb0VAVG9HQ
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFeP6E2bPLw
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlLDvMMMYc5
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJUqkvAy1YT
旭仔淺嘗一口。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpWlUwNQcSY
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8d5w5KVIUy
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡroVpowODeP
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc0MfbDLKWf
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsdLUzx6FgN
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzEKrrEctnt
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfS0DBawJjc
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhN2QK6uPAB
「好喝。」旭仔答。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIL9AVnJcZb
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIAjoEci7Ro
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJIzYaUd0Xf
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmHV9DptgLY
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡB5dZyZ0os7
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡenFFnMcwE4
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFbkuPefmGa
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1qT0ugQLMn
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTjLVcr52D8
498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9JWfP54Ls9
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。498Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM3DcmQSJnF
