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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtYRaNis6tr
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN84Vvrio9Y
「這麼早？」旭仔問。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS4ynNZ5n5D
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJfSO7B9l2U
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLLOtsHbXvI
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡObrtOKqHhy
「是啊，要趕路了。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKjoaRHarrd
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9Oki0YB1mS
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3mKvSZNayD
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu1yNgYimDQ
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjYDWOVGIIR
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAXeX7Uv0Pz
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHc1NcxJugP
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtXGwhJe2Wp
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG4vj8oETJJ
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqReXJDQzNx
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfriqeLCeJg
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyIOxua4lJw
「謝謝你。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5EvLBH9pl1
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡis2G2cBJVC
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ80BCInIyKF
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSZfE8UXVJf
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpXLJDZfZeZ
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbg1E0xj1GG
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi7aXqZMHmM
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡze2GKCGDvj
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCFqJyxa5d6
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIAN82OFoBG
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3PAiXOuS3H
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBEb0yfWRWu
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDe9TGz2QlM
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFvSfecvQAv
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUFp0KaQTB3
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmGziir1pep
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQOUjRxpSru
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0SX9AMta17
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQqg0RlSIB7
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjEbNWKCas5
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrDg14dIgtz
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡktcZnGIqOn
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFc7VvXhKSH
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSpQ2jHAEj6
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoAUJOshaOv
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEOHyg3HRxt
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpr8ixdEdb8
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡueYTq6Vgec
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDO7CHV7ZlC
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbErab40sSA
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaLi5oLXOif
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaxLxz86eeh
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkTZFUmm0H3
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9bxEqkrdsP
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9gepkWm4qg
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡosZ2xWSGhj
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQn9wAkGxy7
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR35BhrNuFt
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxFIJAHcifx
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZm2JgB04ni
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf1Blwe3riv
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKBt46lq04a
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYioT7LJWNQ
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjL7QmoXLKt
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuA9icWCT0x
「是的。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡN6TII5dRPl
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMu6mgozdJb
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPKqpDqx3wK
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtwWCgN1lXy
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡni1ZOOiomX
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrXbCTCy0BW
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvPohaOBIaL
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMcwsR0TRwj
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMqcw4zdAwh
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQJWgeasIxq
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAY3lD4WeYE
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo2OlmcFWvP
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLLHhIbtrUO
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzRf1n8Sm8p
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFWf6wgctLQ
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8rifG1mrVe
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4xlTnsRkO5
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvhmpnBuNjx
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTdHFVW4AfP
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0psycG7gPH
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV5MBbf3O6A
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSfJkf1h75Z
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmTPL4hAnOt
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFCiObNfZab
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCysLFvvmJn
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIwTdsj2YLx
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRqSZY8rz6F
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDIi95uWwZR
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeYswPodz8q
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe1pwRRAsdy
「太好了！」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVpA6dqRvKV
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ88FOAzl2NV
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1IP57HwXDk
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvLNrhwLitm
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr5Cbq9qyFX
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Me9YPc6wm
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8drLofq4dM
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoRmD0brRN1
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMZzeHhWr1e
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUJv8zE17YF
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLFcDxFONs3
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡScOqd1mV9D
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6CSl3tugpI
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXk6EPf9K3M
「好。」旭仔答。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmgYQt3NAhu
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1Aovw6GXjU
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwH5nW6WscP
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6tlg4cp8FJ
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp4osxYYqVb
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHvJkZepzyI
旭仔淺嘗一口。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCcVxmFu5fE
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡX7dy7fUmJe
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUpfTCpDYcv
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAwKWQ969pQ
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ44iOIikIBD
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk5SBMwqExZ
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYrX7tEe2SA
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJmc1fWNye9
「好喝。」旭仔答。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcWAqNJk54E
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkroCxnEeJN
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ610CZdggze
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡINHgBjWcNv
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtrEgS7wQAR
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8NTjcJ8t5Y
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtxqpZuXBiE
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvIGccG39AF
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTvwoISpgIF
609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVrkayhCBCl
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。609Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXKQsW6uLD0
