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朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4g1nP125U0
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfEJOP36Tbg
「這麼早？」旭仔問。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfrJFCCYhPp
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ233DLoHY3U
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRZgxPEH3pc
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRMZoexZefV
「是啊，要趕路了。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS0Km5bjYqh
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5OIeAc93kZ
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzKCCgaO7hG
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgahn4iT59W
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNZScdvcpaE
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmnhRHDIRLc
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvI3jpfAN6s
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGtNpZkGSEJ
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQk81OD21bg
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2CeI5zRc93
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXW0lFBHSt4
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsLMf1KhGES
「謝謝你。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA7MhZfcKtR
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLGB5eW9RH6
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6ryeFXBS5Q
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMPoNykyH6g
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLUFSndDaGh
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFAH2iKFDAA
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3WVwF0PEdn
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjHHGAkZZOz
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdjXFP35VHU
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ54e55GShDp
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2M9EuZsNKR
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNP5YH67hmi
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnwIPSHAeHt
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkd5E2w1KFY
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhcer7OFSEy
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡycf97Bm9XW
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡML5Szmo3VL
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeC22TxUShD
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6jLLXIX4NU
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqTpbuojSL2
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKqYsJnJTvg
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCNr4evpm5F
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg7zJ6yDphB
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKdInpGMbv0
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKmLLx8omK8
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqGvBt1x35d
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvDwdO4Z8X2
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4NtVP0KnMc
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjuDDZuAMVh
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqub8mycYQU
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqR7RMzWRXw
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsqKtIbGEnk
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMlgsgEIrFz
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZgFxKtDIsD
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH8Qojrnf3G
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3VSM37rMrS
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhXdJe1PpDC
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvVgfFWn6kn
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWj2spzhnG9
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4RPdw3hsNa
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0ZMPEWOBPM
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAStHA1FJ1j
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdghkEYBM4y
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCKadzFHuiH
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh1ai6Rfreg
「是的。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvyo3af1UKE
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGYmoI7hMZ1
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1S8BBtYEKi
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDPpwEdqEt2
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg5WMgUT4mY
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeIu4zL4EAX
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqMa7BznZZj
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPP2aCimOwS
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡV9dtuHgJeK
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqS6Vea9Wku
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9tkcirA1ek
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCue3fJ87pv
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJDy94EyxLm
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnfvX1qYq05
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdsjnCXfWtH
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdYb0l0n3B2
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhUa1pRY7Qs
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9aGlvWjHzy
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ5CJnR7Sql
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwpDVhMbJRp
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOixOCXI0X5
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsKStNjBs1j
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzzhc9eyIUY
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2lohlenXRb
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBKQ4DYxQov
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ12Gp1p45uv
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA8XqMt44El
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUhVUOdL7K6
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrEifi31uH9
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFSXpezCK0N
「太好了！」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVLFLKt9x6L
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYZp16kIgwt
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjknJ0T31KY
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsE3mmY2Jnw
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1G81z6CAcf
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIOMCMnBsVR
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6IPazh2ei5
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8bPf7QNltf
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6vz4raBtMu
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyNzyp9CRZ2
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWI3n7PaHnh
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKnobIwsCYL
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO0C0UbuN2s
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8pKfmTFOCj
「好。」旭仔答。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOGFjekT44i
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC0jxvvcV9m
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMOhYHF41Vp
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUS7zGT0ixI
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ958vzOGdJh
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgP42rD8Hfr
旭仔淺嘗一口。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLOYBF4FuDu
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡimjUc6tzSL
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwIwEvAV9ix
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDW7S4tio39
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhs5jTe0pId
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh7bmUqFVf8
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ptZ1kelpH
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8b454Ap9GF
「好喝。」旭仔答。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNy6TgXhmlB
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdRBSmiIX6B
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡonZtxTsiyi
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIGrAyTBBIh
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡa4Me3yxDgm
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNV9p62Yn4I
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYZGegFfYxy
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAXL69MEWEw
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡybBFqsUc7d
497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGmq2zgl4Bz
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。497Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZBmw3TiFJ0
